The basic concepts of the Tartan and wearing of the Kilt originated in
Scottish and Irish Clans as early as the 10th century. The
Philbeag, original Gaelic name, or Kilt features multi-colored stripes and
checks. The patterns identify the Clan, Family or Regiment of the wearer. The
Act of Union in 1707 temporarily united the Clans and factions opposed to the
Act. The Tartan became a signet, nationalism and the ruling class saw it as
the "uniform of rebels". This united the Scottish Highlands and Lowlands for
wearing of the Tartan.
After 1715 the Government brought strict policing to the Highlands and
Lowlands. Independent companies were formed. A large number of Highland
gentlemen enlisted to serve. They brought with them their personal servants
to attend them. These independent regiments became known as the Black Watch
referring to darkly colored Tartans they wore.
A famous tale of a Highland company is told of the curiosity of King
George V who hadn't seen a Highland soldier before. Three handsome privates
were sent to London to be presented to the King. The King was so impressed
with the skill shown wielding their Claymores and Lochaber Axes that he
presented each of them with a guinea. Nothing could be more insulting to a
Highland gentleman, but they could not refuse the gift. Instead they
accepted it, and as they left, they flipped it the porter when they passed the
palace gates.
In 1740, these independent companies became a formal Regiment. They
developed and entirely new Tartan known as the Black Watch Tartan.
During the l800's the wearing of the Belted Plaid began to be exchanged
for that of a Kilt. The Belted Plaid as a one piece six-yard long cloth
belted at the waist with the remainder thrown over the shoulder. This style
was beginning to be inconvenient. The new design became a Kilt with
traditional pleats sewn in place, and the lower and upper section cut so it
could be worn together or removed.
A law as passed in 1746 making it illegal for Highlanders to own or
possess arms. In 1747 the Dress Act restricted the wearing of any form
Plaid, Philbeag, Belted Plaid, Shoulder Belt or Kilt in public. Punishment for
first offense was a six month imprisonment, second offense earned the wearer
a seven year exile to an overseas work farm. The Bagpipes were also
outlawed, considered an instrument of war. Only individuals in the Army were
permitted to wear the Plaid. Consequently, many Highlanders enlisted enabling
them to wear their more comfortable, traditional clothing.
The Dress Act was repealed in 1783, but it had succeeded in changing
Highland Society. Many of the traditions and customs had been lost
forever, wearing the Kilt was no longer considered a way of life for Scottish
Highlanders.
With the growing feeling of Nationalism in Scotland, the Kilt is being
worn more often than in the last 100 years. Many Scotsmen are rediscovering
their roots and beginning to show great interest in reviving some of the old
traditions and customs of the Highlanders. The Tartan Kilt is probably the
most World-wide identifiable garment worn by any one group of individuals.